As a waitress in an upmarket restaurant in a Cornish coastal town popular with tourists, I always try to make a visit to our restaurant as enjoyable for children as I can. After all, it’s doubtful they’ve had a say in being dragged out in their gladrags to sit still on a chair. But recently, a new snobbery has taken over restaurants making my life much harder –the ostentatious refusal of the children’s menu.
One day last week, a mother waltzed in with her small boy. It was late, she was carrying a laptop case and he was still in school uniform. As standard, I offered her the children’s menu but after violently batting it away, she ordered two ultra-healthy adult main courses – something with butternut squash. As the boy stared wistfully at another table’s chicken nuggets I thought, “poor kid” – but the mum hadn’t noticed. Surely this image isn’t worth it?
But it’s not just working mums trying to prove something. Large mixed family parties and nuclear families of four are favoring the more mature menu for their kiddiwinks. The mothers usually make all the decisions however, as their husbands sit there trying to go unnoticed, flushing scarlet. But you can almost read their minds; “just give him some bloody baked beans if that’s what the little lad wants!”
Upon ordering, any wobbler can be dealt with. I’ve heard many a mother hiss something like “darling you’ll LIKE it - I promise. It’s like what you had the other day.” Unfortunately, as I clear away half a pound of artichokes on a plate, I note this evidently isn’t true.
While the “5-a-day” boom of the noughties, or even Jamie Ol’s school dinners spruce-up, may have something to do with this craze, it seems the main snobbery over the children’s menu is far simpler. The middle classes like to project the image that their child has a finer palette than YOURS, which they will eagerly build on the more trips out to restaurants they take.
I think this snobbery needs to stop – children have their whole lives to acquire the taste for olives and capers. There’s no harm in letting your kids eat from the children’s menu once in a while. Adults can go to a restaurant and sink 5 bottles of Pinot Grigio, but kids can’t have the odd plate of alphabetti spaghetti? Has the world gone mad? Jessica Mayne