Once, we could get away with opening a deli pot of fresh pesto. It was homemade by someone, and better than cracking into a jar of Sacla, and that was deemed acceptable. But this year there’s been a creeping awareness among MCs that people are making their own – but the truth is we’re all a bit miserable about it. The grumblings about the price of pine nuts have got louder over the year, and the general disgruntlement is palpable. This easy ingredient that used to be thing we just heated up on the evenings we couldn’t be bothered to cook has now become something we’re expected to make from scratch, and chefs telling us how unbelievably easy it is to rustle up only makes it worse.